So despite my garage now being a workshop with no danger of me ever putting a car in there, my BCO wants a fire door on it (and a bloody step, but that's another thread :-).
Rather than have a big argument I got a plain FD30 door and have lovingly fitted it snugly.
[ Aside: this turned out to be epic as the old door was warped and the frame had been put in 20mm wonky to compensate so I had to hack the old square nails off, and the plaster, then bash it square and re-fix. _And_ you can only take 3mm off the sides of a fire door and 0mm off the top, which wasn't quite enough, so I had to rout the frame in situ instead to get everything fitted nicely, which took approximately forever due to set-up faff and lack of squareness everywhere. ]
Anyway my question is about fitting the intumescent seals. I was a little surprised to find that the door doesn't come with any - that's my problem. So, the tricky bit is how to deal with hinges? You can either have gaps where the hinges are, or put them beside, but that's very close to the door face. If fitted in the door with 28mm for the hinge, then 10mm for the intumescent strip, there is only 5mm of timber. I'm not sure that routing 5mm from the edge is a good idea.
One could put the strip in the frame instead in which case there is plenty of timber, but I can't rout to the corners, so will have to do the corners and bottom by hand with a chisel, which will be tedious and probably a bit wonky.
Now this doc: http://www.sealmaster.co.uk/fire-door-seals/fire-door-seals-pages/n30-fire-and-smoke-seal.php says "The seal is interrupted at the hinges and lock/latch plate positions, and protection at these points is normally not essential for FD30S doors (see BS 8214)." (and they supply inserts to go in hinges which apparently deal with the gap)
But this video shows putting it beside the hinge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VSkbVCBPiQ
And this one talks about the evils of fitting seals with gaps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lE8TJTGRxU0
This doc shows both location, and despite being all about fitting seals fails to mention whether it matters: http://www.bwfcertifire.org.uk/assets/bw631-door-seals-fc.pdf
So I'm confused. How much trouble should I go to to have uninterrupted seals? Is just having a gap at the hinges in fact fine? Or just use some other product to fill the hinge-gap? Any other considerations for deciding whether to put them in the frame or the door?
I see that you can buy intumescent hinge pads. These seem to be intended to be fitted under the hinge? How can that help seal the door? This makes no sense to me. Should they in fact go on top?
Suggestions from the committee are welcome.
Hadn't realised that fitting a (mostly pointless) door was going to be a 3 weekend job!
Books 
Comments
You can buy fire door frames with pre routered grooves for seals
There are two types, easy ones intumescent only or smoke seals (intumescent with brushes)
Oddly nothing needed at the bottom!
You may need full 25mm door stops screwed and glued on too.
We also have the required step into the domestic space, although the rules allow you to slope the floor towards the outside to guide blazing fluids away if you don't want a step.
Required for commercial, I believe - but that may have been his interpretation. He also allowed a hand-made oak door coated in intumescent clear varnish instead of formal FD-30s , so maybe I just got lucky and had a sensible BCO
-Steve
Is it OK to rout the channel deeper so that the door closes? What's the depth limit? The seals don't say. Presumably the seals are designed to expand to fill the whole brush-length, or at least 3mm as the docs all say 'door gap no more than 3mm'.
And what about handles/locks. Is a yale OK? Only fire-certified handles/locks?
Particular hinges are required, but that was easy to find out. Locks don't seem to say.
Is any old mortice lock OK?