Hi
We have a multi-period cottage - one section timber framed brick and flint 17th century; one section Victorian solid brick; another section 1960s solid brick to walll base with timber cladding externally and brick internally thereafter.
The floors throughout are solid concrete, uninsulated, and probably date to the mid-1960s extension.
We want to do the right thing with the building and insulate with breathable materials, install double or triple glaziong and MVHR etc etc.
We were keen on the idea of taking up the concrete floors (only digging down to 45 degrees from the external walls) and installing Limecrete with UFH, however the architect and an eco building retrofit specialist, among others, have firmly advised against this because of the cost and potential for subsidence in the oldest part, which is unlikely to have any foundations of note.
If we follow the advice and keep the solid, uninsulated concrete floors, how best to go about insulating the floor so that moisture isn't driven up into the newly insulated walls; and how best to go about heating the space?
We don't have a great deal of head height in the Victorian part but as this will be the entrance hall it may not be too critical to lose a bit of height here.
We will have lots of insulation, an opportunity for passive solar gain through south facing glazing, and a couple of wood burners, but obviously they can't be set to come on in the morning and would like to have the reassurance of some reliable background heat even if the overall aim is to use as little energy to heat the building as possible.
Is it sensible to go for wet or electric underfloor heating on top of the existing concrete with insulation between? What do we do about the wall-floor join?
Any advice gratefully received.
Comments
Is it sensible to go for wet or electric underfloor heating on top of the existing concrete with insulation between?
Direct Electric heating of any kind is expensive to run compared to other fuels. Comparison site here..
See the column "pence per KWH (after boiler efficiency)"...
http://www.nottenergy.com/energy_cost_comparison/
This is from another thread:
Better to reduce heat demand as much as possible and use those solid walls and the solar gain as a passive solar contribution to the heating demand?